Sunday, January 5, 2020

Singapore, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Malaysia


Our ship Norwegian Jade was making its maiden voyage on this particular itinerary so they were discovering things just like we were.  For example, we found out that three of the ports were not accessible for large ships so we had to be tendered in.

Itinerary was great - hitting main tourist attractions in Southeast Asia in one fell swoop - and so was the price.  Added bonuses were solar eclipse on December 26 visible only in Asia (67% where we were in Sihanoukville, Cambodia), and front row seat at Singapore Marina to watch New Year's fireworks.  (Total 4406 miles or 3831.7 knots for the whole trip.)


The 3 main cities - Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) were far away from the nearest - mostly industrial, not touristy - 
ports  and it took us 1-2 hours each way to the city, and left only a short amount of time for sightseeing.  Penang, Phuket, Ko Samui and Nha Trang were perfectly touristy - we were tendered in the last 3 ports, which took away some time from sightseeing as well.  Sihanoukville, Cambodia's ONLY deep sea port, is considered a resort town for the locals, but it really wasn't quite so.. Chinese investors poured money to build casinos, which would have helped the economy and tourism, but something went wrong and the money flow stopped.  Now, it is a dusty town with torn up roads and bunch of unfinished buildings.  We instead hopped over to Siem Reap to visit Angkor Wat, world's largest religious monument.  

Click on the links below to see photos.


  • Thailand - Ko SamuiBangkok and Phuket  - December 23-24, 2019 and January 2, 2020
    - Ko Samui is an idyllic forested island with pristine sandy beaches.  Venture inland to see majestic cascading waterfalls.  Visit giant Buddha at Wat Phra Yai.  We hired a private taxi who kept us ahead of the tour buses and brought us back to the ship ahead of time.
    - Laem Chabang is an industrial port 127 km away from Bangkok (Elevation nearly 5000 ft.)  We had booked a private taxi online.  He had trouble finding our ship, but after that it was a smooth sailing to the Grand Palace.  Emerald Buddha, Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho), and Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) were all walkable/MRT connected.  From Wat Arun, we took MRT to Makkasan station, and changed to train to BKK (Suvarnabhumi) Airport for a flight to Siem Reap.  The next day, return trip from BKK to Laem Chabang worked out well due to on time flight and taxi performance.
    - Phuket is known for its beaches, but also for island hopping.  There are so many islands in Phang Nga Bay that are worth visiting.  A distinctive feature of Phang Nga Bay is the sheer limestone karsts that jut vertically out of the emerald-green water.  James Bond Island where Man with the Golden Gun was filmed is but one example.  From sandy beaches to sandbars, to coves where you could swim or snorkel, t
    o caves and lagoons at Hong Island, to Fishing Village on stilts could only be done in half a day with a speed boat going 25-30 knots.  Definitely worthwhile and unique experience.
  • Cambodia - Angkor Wat and Solar Eclipse - December 25 -26, 2019
    - Angkor Wat - An 1:20 hour flight on a prop plane brought us from Bangkok to Siem Reap on 24th night.  A small International airport, where after getting off the plane via ladder, we were told to just walk over to Arrivals.  With eVisas already on hand, we came out quickly.  All hotels provide free shuttle to the hotel (but not back to the airport.)  Tuk Tuk driver who picks you up is usually the one to take you to Angkor Wat the next day. 
    - Half day Short Loop is $22 (USD is widely accepted, and in fact, preferred.)  To go early to watch sunrise, it is additional $10, and another $7 to bring you back to the airport - even though the airport is only 3 miles from Angkor Wat, whereas the town is 7 miles away.
    - After a short sleep, we left the hotel at 4:30 am to get to the ticket center.  There were enough tourists, but plenty of counters to purchase tickets.  As it happens overseas, our credit cards didn't go through, so we had to pay cash ($37 pp/day.)  The ticket covered ALL monuments in the area.  The ticket has your photo on it to prevent fraud, and they checked tickets at each stop.
    - By 5 am, we were dropped of at the West entrance of Angkor Wat.  Following the crowds, we walked to the South side by the lake to view sunrise (6:24 am.)  It was very dark and we had no idea where we were going.  After checking our tickets, we walked on a pontoon bridge to arrive at the prime viewing spot - where you can see the reflection of the temples in the lake.  Hundreds of people were there and more kept coming.  As the darkness faded, we realized that there were plenty of other spots from where to view the sunrise.  Also, the temple was open to enter anytime.  Even before sunrise, we started exploring the temple, and by 7:30 am, we were ready to move on.
    - The hotel had provided breakfast boxes (they preferred that we went back to the hotel to have breakfast, but the timing wasn't working out for us.  To catch 1:35 PM flight, we had to be at the airport by Noon, and we would rather spent most of the time at the temples.)
    - Going East of Angkor Wat, we stopped at Banteay Kdai,Ta Phohm, Ta Keo, Thommanon and Chau Say Tevoda going counter clockwise (see map link above.) before going to Angkor Thom and then airport to the West.  All other temples were smaller and less crowded - Angkor Thom being the largest - but sufficiently different from each other.  Ta Prohm is where you can see what I call "the revenge of the trees" - giant tree roots finding their way to the soil overpowering temple rock walls in the process. 
    - With nearly 6 hours of Angkor Wat experience - walking, climbing steps, taking pictures and admiring the temples built 8-9 hundred years ago, lost to the forest and discovered only recently, we felt that this trip was definitely the highlight.
    - At the airport, they kept changing the departure gates on us, and finally bus-ed us over to the plane (Boeing 737 this time) for 1:10 hr flight back to BKK.
    - Some stats on Angkor Wat Tourism - Only since the 1990s, Angkor Wat has become a major tourist destination.  In 1993, there were only 7,650 visitors to the site; by 2004, government figures show that 561,000 foreign visitors had arrived in Siem Reap province, approximately 50% of all foreign tourists in Cambodia.  The number reached over a million in 2007, and over two million by 2012.  Most visited Angkor Wat received over two million foreign tourists in 2013.  Cambodian government keeps jacking up entrance fees (now, $37/day) and tourists happily pay.  Tourism has provided some additional funds for maintenance—as of 2000 approximately 28% of ticket revenues across the whole Angkor site was spent on the temples—although most work is carried out by teams sponsored by foreign governments rather than by the Cambodian authorities
    - Next day in Sihanoukville was mainly about the Solar Eclipse. Our short walk in to town was disappointing.
  • Vietnam - Nha Trang and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)  - December 28-29, 2019 
    - Nha Trang was perfectly touristy.  Though we had to be tendered in, once at the pier, the town lay right along the beautiful 8 mile tree-lined sandy beach.  Our interest was Po Nagar temple just past the river - and the beach.  Though a bit risky, we decided to ride motorcycles.  Unknown vehicle, unknown driver, unknown road/traffic conditions - but it worked out.  The traffic was disciplined, drivers careful and weather nice.

    Phu My (Foo Mee) is a cruise port located 40 miles southeast of Saigon.  A long trip in a private taxi took us there.  All tourist spots are close to each other - walking distance actually.  First stop - Ben Thanh Market - was of no interest to us.  War Remnants Museum was a propaganda about how Vietnam fought evil US during the war.  Reunification Palace was closed for lunch.  Notre Dame Cathedral was also closed for repairs.  That left Central Post Office which is right next door to the Cathedral.  It is a working post office with bunch of shops around and lots of tourists.  Nice, short trip, though otherwise disappointing.
  • Malaysia - Penang and Kuala Lumpur - January 3-4, 2020
    - Penang is an island popular with expats from all over the world.  Known as the Pearl of the Orient, it has rain forest, waterfalls and sandy beaches.  George Town's historic district has mix of architecture and the usual attractions for shoppers and foodies.  Views from the top of Penang Hill and Kek Lok Si Temple were the highlights.
    - Kuala Lumpur has a compact sight seeing area, except for Batu Caves further up north and not to be missed.  We had very limited amount of time and we returned just in the nick of time - though there were plenty of people behind us.  President's Palace, Independence Square, Petronas Towers and KL Menara Tower were the other attractions.
    - We did not have time to go to the top, nor for shopping or even lunch.  Lunch from Jaipur Mahal 
    was included so we took to go and ate at the Independence Square to save time.  Everyone was very happy with the food - Thankfully.
  • Singapore and New Year's Eve - December 31, 2019 and January 5, 2020 
    - Singapore sight seeing - Singapore has changed dramatically since my last visit nearly 30 years ago.  There were plenty of new things to see, and we had two full days to do it - 90+ degree weather notwithstanding.  Luckily, it didn't rain on those days. We spent a lot of time near Marina Bay and Marina Sands area, though the other areas were not too far from there considering how small the entire Singapore island country is.  The best part was their extensive SMRT metro system where they had only recently started accepting mobile apps like GPay and ApplePay.  Many tourists didn't know that, and lined up to purchase tickets at the vending machines.  Fares were very reasonable (subsidized?) - we paid about $2 per trip - even from Changi airport to Marina Bay Cruise Center (MBCCS.)
    - New Year's Eve fireworks - F
    ireworks started early.  One of our friends had a cabin with balcony directly facing the harbor and the city (as you can see in photos).  When the fireworks began at 11, we thought that our clocks were off.  Instead, they have a large stadium called The Float @ Marina Bay where there was a concert followed by the fireworks.  We had walked by that area that morning and saw that they had barricaded many areas and streets for the night event.  From 11 PM, fireworks continued for almost an hour, stopping just before midnight.  They then had drones produce images of the lion, walking man, etc. and finally, a giant clock ticking down to midnight.  Grand finale lasted for 5-10 minutes after that and the show was over.  Even from the distance, it was spectacular.
  • We disembarked cruise ship in the morning on Jan 5.  Our non-stop flight on United was at 10:20 PM.  I had a middle seat on the flight, passengers on my either side were also on the same cruise, but we didn't remember seeing each other during those 15 days - what are the chances?
  • Saturday, January 4, 2020

    Day by Day

    Sun 1/5/20 - Singapore
    • Singapore has changed dramatically since my last visit nearly 30 years ago.  There were plenty of new things to see, and we had already seen a few things on New Year's Eve.  It was mostly sunny, hot and humid - so what else is new?
    • We stayed on the ship as long as we could - enjoying our last breakfast and saying goodbyes.  We then dropped off our bags at Google office for the day before wandering around.  We will pick up the bags later and go to the airport directly for 10 PM non-stop flight to SFO.
    • By now, we were experts at navigating Singpaore's SMRT metro system using GPay.  Two things we wanted to do for sure were to visit Gardens by the Bay - Cloud Forest conservatory, and go to the top of Marina Sands Hotel.  We still had plenty of time to walk around the city.
    • We got off at City Hall station, visited the War Memorial, Raffles Hotel and got on MRT at Esplanade Station at Marriott South Beach to Bayfront station for Marina Sands hotel.  We walked though the luxury mall to enter the hotel's gigantic lobby for its pronged towers.  From the registration desk at the bottom of tower 3, a separate lift takes you to the 56th floor and the outdoor viewing area.  Preferred time is around sunset, but day views are also spectacular on clear days like today. 
    • As everyone seems to know (or may be not), CÉ LA VI rooftop bar on the 57th floor also has great views.  They charge S$23 cover charge and give you a food credit for the same amount.  In effect, you get the views and drink/snack for about the same price as going just to the observation deck on the 56th floor.  The place gets busy around sunset, since you can sit, drink, eat as long as you want.
      - You can wander around the restaurant for city views, and also see the infinity pool on one side.  After spending a couple of hours here - and enjoying the famous Singapore Sling cocktail, we moved on.
    • The security guard in the lobby told us about the Marina Bay Overpass from the sixth floor that would take us to the viewpoint.  Taking an elevator down and then crossing Dragonfly Lake on Dragonfly Bridge dropped us in to Gardens by the Bay.  Kedar visited the Cloud Forest conservatory while I waited in the cool breeze enjoying the view.
    • We then returned to Labrador Park to get the luggage and back to Changi airport around 7 PM.  There are plenty of man made attractions in each of the Airport Terminals.  We had time and planned to visit some of them - Cactus Garden in Terminal 1, Butterfly Garden in Terminal 3 but just visited the Sunflower Garden in Terminal 2 where our flight was to depart.
    • Ran into several passengers from our ship at the airport check in, and also on our flight.  In fact, two passengers on my either side were both among them (but didn't know them.)
    • Nonstop flight on United left SIN and arrived at SFO on time.  Mission accomplished.
    Sat 1/4/20 - Kuala Lumpur
    • Kuala Lumpur has a compact sight seeing area, except for Batu Caves (a limestone hill with a series of caves and Hindu temple) is further up north and not to be missed.  We had very limited amount of time and we returned just in the nick of time - though there were plenty of people behind us.  President's Palace, Independence (Merdeka) Square, Petronas Towers and KL Menara Tower were the other attractions.  See details.
    • I had coordinated this Shore Excursion through Viator from Port Klang Terminal $409 (12 Adults @$34 each.)  This was a great price.  We had a 15 people van for 12 people - so some extra legroom. 
    • We did not have time to go to the top of either towers, nor for shopping or even lunch.  Lunch from Jaipur Mahal was included so we took to go and ate at the Independence Square to save time.  Everyone was very happy with the food - Thankfully. 
    Fri 1/3/20 - Penang
    • Organized through Cruise Critic with a local operator, this was another great deal ($20 pp) and covered the following:
    • 升旗山 Penang Hill
      乐寺 Kek Lok Si Temple
      卧佛寺 Reclining Buddha
      缅甸寺 Burmese Temple
      姓氏 Clan Jetty
      壁画街 Street Art and Peranakan Museum
    • Penang is a popular expat island from all over the world.  They gave tax subsidies to make it an attractive proposition.  It has rain forests, waterfalls and sandy beaches.  George Town's historic district has mix of architecture and the usual attractions for shoppers and foodies.  Views from the top of Penang Hill and Kek Lok Si Temple were the highlights.  We visited the local food market where many had lunch.
    Thu 1/2/20 - Phuket
    • We chose to go island hopping in Phuket.  A private group of 9 was transported to the other (Northeast) end of the island to get on this speed boat going 25-30 knots.  So many islands in Phang Nga Bay are worth visiting.  From sandy beaches to sandbars, to coves where you could swim or snorkel, to caves and lagoons at Hong Island, to Fishing Village on stilts.  It was a great experience.
    • A distinctive feature of Phang Nga Bay is the sheer limestone karsts that jut vertically out of the emerald-green water.  James Bond Island where Man with the Golden Gun was filmed is but one example.
    • Isabella has taken the lead on this private tour at Phuket island hopping.
    Wed 1/1/20 - Sea Day
    • Ship left Singapore early morning.  Tomorrow will be our 3rd day in Thailand.
    Tue 12/31/19 - Singapore
    • Docked at 8 am facing the city to watch fireworks tonight.  Left at 8:15, walked to Gardens by the Bay, then to Marina Sands Hotel.  MRT to Raffles Place (wrong stop) so walked to Maryamman temple, and then back from Chinatown (Purple line to Dhobi Ghaut, then Red line to Marina South Pier) to the ship.  Walked 4 miles or so.  Back at noon exhausted.  Took shower and ate. 
    • Kedar went to Google office at Labrador Park.  Met with his colleague and another expat, had lunch at Google, got a temporary badge for the 5th, went to Botanical Gardens and returned at 5.
    • Watched tree lighting at 745 and 845.  Went to Hedy (Cabin 9500) to watch fireworks. Started at 11 pm and continued a bit after midnight.  Returned to the room at 1 am.  Tomorrow is a sea day.
    Mon 12/30 - sea day
    • Only one day in Singapore 12/31.  Leaving 530 am on January 1 - essentially a sea day.  However, we do have the entire day on Jan 5 after disembarking.
    Sun 12/29 - Ho Chi Minh City
    • Ho chi Minh City - left on a private tour $100 for 2 to the city to see five places - reunification hall (closed for lunch 11-1 pm), cathedral (closed for renovations), Post office - photos of the outside.  War remnants museum (propaganda against the US), skipped the market.  9 am to 1245 - no traffic due to Sunday
    • 1100 of 2600 passengers on the ship have drinks packages.  451 kids.
    Sat 12/28 - Nha Trang
    • Stood in line at 530 am to get #1 tender tickets.  Waited until much later #11 to get off ship.  For $10 pp, rode a motorcycle to Po Nagar Durga temple 8 km north just past the river and town.  It was fairly crowded, but temperature was mild and breezy.
    • Stopped at the beach on the way back.  They tried to charge $5 for $1 temple ticket - paid $1.
    • Kedar wasn't feeling well since yesterday, so he slept much of the time.
    Fri 12/27 - Sea day
    • Good rest day.  Weather was cloudy, cooler and some rough seas due to typhoon that hit the Philippines earlier in the week.
    Thu 12/26 - Sihanoukville
    • Watched partial solar eclipse in the morning - showed around 50 people on the ship.
    • No tender.  Docked at Pier.  Waited until 230 to go ashore.  Shuttle to port gate. Then walked to the nearest beach.  Road was very dusty.  Sidewalk either dug up or missing.  Walking on the road with two way traffic was no fun.
    • The beach was deserted.  No one on the beach, no one in the water.  Drains directly in the ocean.  Our sandals were covered in mud by the time we came back.  Tried walking to the independence park, but too much construction.
    • Returned by 4 PM
    Wed 12/25 - Angkor wat
    • Woke up at 4 am.  Checked out at 430.  Tuk tuk to ticket center. 
    • Room $55, tuk tuk $22 +$10 sunrise+$7 back to airport.
    • Credit cards did not work at Angkor so paid cash $74 ($37*2).  Tickets with photo - checked at every entrance.
    • Reached Angkor at 5 am.  Sunrise at 625.  Waited by the lake for photos.  Clouds rolled in as darkness lifted.  Realized that there were a number of vantage points for great pictures.
    • Entered the temple at 615 and finished about an hour later.
    • Small loop included 4 other stops - half hour each, before visiting Angkor Thom.  Finished at 11, at the airport at 1130.
    • Flight at 135 - left on time even after multiple gate changes.  Gate 5, bus to the plane at both ends.  Boeing 737.
    • Immigration - supervisor had to clear entering the country to a cruise ship.
    • Person with a sign waiting for us to take to the taxi.
    • We didn't know where the ship was parked.  Went A1 and then to C0 to Jade.  Returned by 445.
    • Worth the trip though hectic and a lot of walking/sweating.
    Tue 12/24 - Bangkok
    • Gettransfer taxi took a long time to show up.  Only after Kedar texting pictures, we connected.  Julie joined us.  Not much traffic, but still 135 km distance.  Reached grand palace at 11 am.  Julie took off.  Kedar had to buy long pants 200 bahts to enter palace.  Palace 500 bahts was worth it. Then walked to sleeping Buddha behind the palace.
    • Ate lunch across the street.  Walked 0.6 km to MRT one stop to Wat Arun 0.9 km away and back.  18 BHT. 
    • Took MRT to Mckessan 40 BHT and then airport express 35 BHT pp.
    • The flight was on time.  Bus to prop plane.  Kedar met a co-worker.  May meet up with him in Singapore (did.)
    • Tuk tuk to the hotel.  Checked in - good service but slow.  Upgraded to one king size bed room.  Nice amenities.
    • Next morning, breakfast boxes since we're leaving very early.
    Mon 12/23/19 - Ko Samui
    • Waterfall, elephant sanctuary, hinya and hints, cheweng beatch, big Buddha, second temple.  1500 BHT, 1040 am to 240 pm.  Back on boat by 330 pm.